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Chief Editor
05-09-2005, 04:32 PM
Article for Photozo's Photozine Newsletter for May 2005.

A Day at the Races- by Glenn (Cadwell)

http://www.photozo.com/album/data/4550/05-05-ARTICLE-AVATAR-Cadwell.jpg (http://www.photozo.com/forum/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=7457)

Nope, not a Marx Brothers movie nor am I going to sing (you can all be grateful about that). I’ve been persuaded to write a piece on what a typical days’ motor racing from the “business” side of the debris fences is like for me.

The Night Before.
A typical day at the races actually starts the night before. The cameras need to be prepared; sensors checked for dust and fresh batteries fitted. The right lenses need to be added to the camera bag and the memory cards need to be formatted. I never erase memory cards on a shoot. It’s too easy to lose some vital shots that way if you’re in a hurry, so I make sure all my cards are blank before I set out. The last thing I do is to set the cameras to a sensible set of parameters for racing. One thing you do not want to do is come home and realise you’ve shot the entire day in ISO 3200 or something daft like that – it’s very embarrassing.

Next I need to do my homework. I look up the races being run as part of the event and work out who the significant drivers are. Series leaders, class winners, anyone about to win a trophy, those are the shots that magazine editors want. A nice artistic picture of someone who regularly trails around at the back of the field, and who no-one has ever heard of doesn’t get published. I print out my notes and then call it a night.

Race Day.
On race day I need to get to the circuit bright and early in order to sign in at the media centre. This involves presenting my pass and then signing a little form which basically says

“If you get killed or injured whilst trackside it’s your own stupid fault and you’re not allowed to sue anyone”.

Once that’s done I get either a wrist band or a tabard to wear which identifies me as someone allowed trackside. Wrist bands are favourite. I hate the tabards as they get in the way of access to jacket pockets etc. and on hot days they’re just another unwanted layer of clothing.

http://www.photozo.com/album/data/4550/05-05-ARTICLE-PIC_0195.jpg

Now for the really important bit: breakfast! Most circuits have a cafeteria that does a fine line in “Full English Breakfasts”. “Hailwoods” at Brands Hatch is a particular gem where £5 buys you sausages, bacon, eggs, toast, hash browns, beans and mushrooms along with a coffee. It’s all fried in Castrol R (apart from the coffee – although I’m not too sure about that either) and sets you up for the day. One look at the plate and you can hear your arteries clanging shut.

Following breakfast, a quick dash around the paddock is normally in order. For this I use both cameras, one with a wide angle zoom lens on for car shots and the other with a medium telephoto on in case I need a bit of reach for candids or action shots. The wide angle equipped body is the primary camera and if the light is anywhere near half decent I’ll have a circular polarizer filter on the lens. Polarizing filters work wonders in static car photography. I’ll also have a flash gun on the camera for a bit of fill flash. You can pick up some useful gossip in the paddock from the drivers. Who’s running well, who’s not, who had a run-in with the stewards of the meeting during yesterdays practice and is therefore likely to be “a good boy” on the track today; that sort of thing.

http://www.photozo.com/album/data/4550/05-05-ARTICLE-PIC_0202.jpg

After the paddock I’ll head up to one of my favourite shooting locations and hop (well clamber – I haven’t hopped in years) over the spectator fence and head track side. The marshals will normally want to see my wrist band just to make sure I’m allowed to be there.

Fantastic people, motor racing marshals, by the way. They’re all volunteers, receive no payment, are “petrol heads” to a man (or woman) and they do a great job keeping the events running and looking after everyone’s safety. They’ve also been known to share a cup of coffee with a cold and wet photographer.

Most “club” racing events (which are the kind I tend to do) have practice or qualifying sessions in the morning and then the races in the afternoon. There’s a nominal “lunch break” between the two sessions. I say nominal because often it gets missed out. If too many drivers stick their cars in the kitty litter and the morning sessions run late then the lunch break is the first to be sacrificed in order to get things back on schedule (one reason why a good breakfast is important).

http://www.photozo.com/album/data/4550/05-05-ARTICLE-PIC_0422.jpg

The good thing about this arrangement is that it gives me two bites at the cherry. I can shoot the cars once at one particular corner and then get them again somewhere else later in the day. Yes, I know… in the morning these are qualifying shots, not racing, therefore in the strictest sense it’s “cheating”. However, you would be surprised how many great “racing” shots are published from practice sessions, the green flag lap or behind a safety car.

When shooting track side I’ll again use two cameras, one with a long zoom or prime and the other with a shorter lens. The short lens is there in case someone comes off the track and ends up unexpectedly close to me. No time to fiddle about changing lenses under those circumstances, by the time I did it the shot would be gone.

How I work my way round a circuit really depends on the light. As the day progresses and the sun moves, some angles become impossible so you can pretty much set your watch by the time I turn up at certain corners.

http://www.photozo.com/album/data/4550/05-05-ARTICLE-PIC_3320.jpg

The actual business of getting round the circuit can sometimes be interesting. Mostly I stay behind the tyre barriers and Armco. Occasionally I have to cross the track. Now, I’m not stupid and this is done between races but it can still be a little hairy. There are often course cars running round and sometimes a race car which has just been dug out of a gravel trap. These are supposed to be driving slowly back to the pits, but a race driver who’s been sitting festering behind a tyre wall, looking at his bent car, whilst all his mates whiz round for twenty minutes or so is often not in the best of humours. They tend to get a touch of the old red mist before the eyes so it’s wise to keep your eyes and ears open for hurtling race cars.

A race programme will often consist of 9 or more races so my notes from the night before come in handy as I try and make sure that I get at least some shots of the drivers/cars I noted down. Of course sometimes they don’t cooperate and break down/fall off the track/spend the entire race tight up behind another car. If a race driver can screw things up for you, he probably will. If you are lucky then there are incidents with cars coming off the track. As photographers we often get blamed by the marshals for being “accident magnets”. It’s not true, I hope…. but a car flying through a gravel trap or bouncing across the grass does make an interesting photo. The worst kinds of photos are the “single car shots” and I try to avoid them. A good motor racing shot should normally contain some “racing” and that means more than one car. Of course, there are exceptions… a car bouncing over a kerb or with a wheel or two in the air can make an exciting photo. Endless sequences of single car shots do not impress anyone, however.

http://www.photozo.com/album/data/4550/05-05-ARTICLE-PIC_3425.jpg

After the last race I head back to my car and try and avoid the queues getting out of the circuit. If I’ve planned my day right, my car is parked pretty much next to where I took the last photographs.

Race Day Evening.
As soon as I get home I start to process the images from the day. I normally try and get the “headline” shots off to the magazine editor by email that same night. I don’t tend to do a lot of processing on my photos. Usually I just make sure the white balance is OK, bump the contrast a little, adjust the gamma and saturation and then apply a little USM. It usually takes me about 10 seconds a photo. The other shots get burnt to a CD or DVD which gets posted the following morning.

Off to bed ...

Cadwell's links : Profile (http://www.photozo.com/forum/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=7457) - Gallery (http://www.photozo.com/album/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=7457&thumb=1) - Website (http://gallery.ukmotorsportpics.com)

Jan
05-21-2005, 01:04 AM
Thank you Glenn for an excellent insight into your working day. Impressive, informative, humerous and very interesting. All together with some fantastic action shots.
Thanks again for taking the time to share with us. Well done.----------Jan

keithbales
05-21-2005, 01:37 AM
Superb writeup Glenn, really good insight into the world of the motor racing photographer.

Keith :cool:

CrazyRazor
05-21-2005, 03:32 AM
A very enjoyable read, thanks Glenn.

mickeybb
05-21-2005, 05:25 AM
Ahhh, a day in the life of a racing photographer! It's definitely not for me! I thoroughly enjoyed reading about it though. Nice article Glenn. Thanks for sharing with us. :-D

neilp
05-22-2005, 04:36 AM
Excellent work Glenn,

It's interesting to hear what goes on behind the scenes on an event like this! You've got some excellent pictures here too.

It would be great if you could also post a couple of paddock pictures, the type you mentioned with the polorizer and fill flash, I'd be interested to see the results! ;)

Also it would be fantastic if you could offer some tips on getting a good sharp focus on such fast moving subjects - do you pre-focus or use ai-servo?

Thanks again!

Neil.

Cadwell
05-22-2005, 11:45 AM
OK, here's a shot from a very sunny paddock at Thruxton circuit near Andover. It's by no means the best shot ever, but it illustrates a couple of points.

http://www.photozo.com/album/data/4512/LJ8J0105.jpg

The things to look at are the Saab in the foreground and by comparison the Ford Focus in the background. Note how setting the polarizer correctly has minimised as far as possible the glare off of the Saab's paintwork compared to the Ford. The other major thing to note is the effect that the polarizer has had on the glass. Rather than it being a mess of reflections in the Saab, it's see through allowing you to see the interior of the car.

Cadwell
05-22-2005, 12:03 PM
Fill flash can sometimes be helpful. Again, not the best shot in the world but it illustrates the point and it just so happens I have one with and one without so it's a decent example. These were taken in the paddock at Silverstone where someone had parked this rather pretty little 246 Dino amongst the car transporters.

http://www.photozo.com/album/data/4512/LJ8J6697.jpg

Unfortunately it's sitting in the shadow of one of the large trucks so the right hand side of the car is pretty much invisible.

This second shot was taken with some angled fill flash along the right hand side of the car.

http://www.photozo.com/album/data/4512/LJ8J6698.jpg

Cadwell
05-22-2005, 12:45 PM
Focus... I have both cameras set up to use the "*" button on the rear to activate focus rather than the shutter release button. The shutter release only provides exposure lock when half depressed and shutter release on full depression.

I always use AI Servo predictive auto focus with a single focus point active. I pick a high contrast point on the front of the car (sometimes not easy to find - particularly in single seaters) and track the car for about half a second with the focusing active ("*" button depressed) before pressing the shutter release. That gets the shot 98%+ of the time on the 1D Mark II and @ 65-70% of the time on the 10D assuming I've done it right (found a high contrast area and managed to keep the focus point on it.)

The difference in the success rate is down to the improved focusing mechanism on the 1D Mark II. It's capable of tracking a subject travelling at 300kph as close as 20 meters. The 10D can track a subject moving at 50kph at the same distance.

fw-studio
05-23-2005, 12:30 AM
Fantastic article Glenn! A great read.

EricvZ
05-23-2005, 04:43 AM
Haai Glenn, thanks again for writing your story of A Day at the Races. It's nice to read how you work on a day like that. Thanks for sharing your practical info (Breakfast!! ;-) ) and some examples about settings also, a thing we can all learn from.

Kind regards, Eric.

Mark Thomas
05-23-2005, 08:56 AM
As a car shooter myself I enjoyed your article. I shoot mostly modified road cars and supercars (static and tracking). I do sometimes however shoot a race day but usually i have to follow a certain vehicle that the article is about.

Thanks for the insight, just a simple question - you say you send the pics to the magazine the next day - do you post process all or choose and send a few?

cheers

Janika
05-23-2005, 09:08 AM
Very interesting article Glenn. I enjoyed it a lot and the related images are high quality as always. If I may say one observation, I would like to point out the way I see this as sort of a help read on motorsport photography mainly aimed to DSL users only. I know we can all larn from it, but we don't all posess a DSLR camera. Still, very educational and informative. Excellent work. :-)

Mark Thomas
05-23-2005, 09:17 AM
I'll answer that one for you John, the shatter lag on most digicams makes it virtually imposible to photograph fast-moving objects. By the time te sutter opens the car is gone.

cheers

WTilley
05-23-2005, 09:22 AM
Great article that answers all the questions I have had about motor photography. I see it's not all formula racing, love the image of the Saab. Does it come in any color other than red?

Cadwell
05-23-2005, 10:01 AM
Very interesting article Glenn. I enjoyed it a lot and the related images are high quality as always. If I may say one observation, I would like to point out the way I see this as sort of a help read on motorsport photography mainly aimed to DSL users only. I know we can all larn from it, but we don't all posess a DSLR camera. Still, very educational and informative. Excellent work. :-)

Thanks John :-D

Mmm... well this never started out to be a tutorial on motorsport shooting, the brief was "describe your day at the races". That's what I did and I guess given that I use dSLRs there's a slight bias that way when I talk about the kit.

That aside, the technique is really no different when using a non-SLR camera. A solely point and shoot camera isn't much use for motor sport but any camera which allows you to take control of the shutter speed, aperture and has a long-ish zoom lens can be used quite sucessfully.

I used to use a Fuji S602z digital, for example. I had a polarizing filter for it and would use an external (or internal) flash to provide fill flash when needed. I had telephoto and wide angle adaptor lenses which I used track side or in the paddock. When shooting action, I would set it on shutter priority and set my shutter speed to about 1/400th (around 1/200th for pans). All of that is essentially the same technique as I currently use today with the dSLRs.

The big difference is in the focusing. The S602z didn't have a tracking AF system and (as has been mentioned) the shutter lag was fairly long. That meant I had to pre-focus on where I wanted to take the shot and track the car in, estimating the shutter release to allow for shutter lag. It took some practice.

Things are easier with the dSLRs, that true... but you CAN do it with other cameras and the technique is pretty much the same. I understand some of the newer compact digitals even have tracking focus now as well...

One advantage of the S602 was that it weighed an awful lot less and was much easier to lug about than a pair of SLRs and some big lenses ;-)

Bazza
05-23-2005, 10:05 AM
Enjoyed your write up and pictures Glen......I have spent alot of time at race circuits over the years and have always had an eye on how you guy's operate.You really have to be on the ball all of the time and contend with the English weather.But you still have to deliver the goods whatever the circustances and you guys capture some superb action week on week......you have to have a passion for this kind of work and I can see from your Images you love what you do.......even if it can be a hard slog at times......Cheers Bazza

Cadwell
05-23-2005, 10:13 AM
I do sometimes however shoot a race day but usually i have to follow a certain vehicle that the article is about.

Thanks for the insight, just a simple question - you say you send the pics to the magazine the next day - do you post process all or choose and send a few?

cheers

Hi Mark,

Doing a shoot for a single car/driver can be a pain can't it? Last year I went to shoot a driver for a magazine article he was featuring in. He wanted some shots of him doing exciting things in the race. He stayed on the track for 3 laps out of a 12 lap race before falling off, most of those 3 laps he spent tucked up behind another car. When I saw him later in the paddock his first question was "Did you get some good pictures?". Drivers... :roll: lol

To answer your question, I don't send all the shots. I'll make a first pass at filtering out the uninteresting, dull and just "not very good" ones. Part of that is based on what sort of shot the client told me he was after. I'll process the shots for white balance and correct any colour/levels problems but I won't crop, resize or sharpen.

Cadwell
05-23-2005, 10:17 AM
Great article that answers all the questions I have had about motor photography. I see it's not all formula racing, love the image of the Saab. Does it come in any color other than red?

I think the SAAB comes in a variety of colours... the Dino 246 should only ever be red though ;-)

Janika
05-23-2005, 11:51 AM
Glenn, would you recommend a higher end P&S cam like the Minolta A200, Oly C8080 or the Nikon CP 8800 for motorsport photography? Those all have manual controls, or the shutterlog is so bad? I guess the focusing is more of a problem with those. I own both, a DSLR and a P&S and my biggest concern with the P&S is the focusing speed. Especially with running, jumping lill rodents like I photograph, it is almost like being at the race track, but more quiet! lol

Cadwell
05-23-2005, 01:24 PM
I’m not familiar with those cameras, John, and I’m always reluctant to recommend something I haven’t used or hasn’t been used by someone whose opinion I trust.

What I would look for in a camera bought specifically for motorsport is as follows:

Lens: minimum of 300mm in 35mm equivalent terms – longer is better. Something around 28mm at the wide end is good (again in 35mm equiv. terms)
Fast focus
Tracking auto-focus function mode
Fast zoom mechanism
Low shutter lag
A “shutter priority” shooting mode
Flash hotshoe

neilp
05-23-2005, 04:16 PM
Glenn,

Thanks for being so kind as to answer my questions with the sample images of the polarizor, flash and details of the focussing, Great stuff!!! ;)

I'm very impressed by the difference the polarizer makes, first the reflections in the paint but also the see-through ness of the windows, very cool!

The flash certainly is useful for fill, and it looks like you've got a very powerful flash as it almost completely eliminates the shadow from the dark area! It makes the second picture look like a showroom/brochure picture, Nice.

And the focussing tips are very useful, I didn't realise there would be as much difference between the 10D and 1D MkII in terms of focus speed! I guess you get what you pay for ;) I guess the focussing sensors are simply more sensitive and of a higher resolution.


Janika - regarding P+S cams with the features you want, be sure to check out the reviews on http://www.dpreview.com they are extremely detailed and include all the info about features and data on shutter lag etc though they have no tests on focusing of moving objects. They also have a feature where you can show the specifications for cameras sides by side. And if you can't find the info you want in a review then they have some equally busy forums and there may be users there with the cameras you mention. I certainly remember the olympus 8080 getting a good review and I seriously considered it before taking the plunge on my 300D.

Thanks again for all the info Glenn!

Neil.

Cadwell
05-24-2005, 12:18 AM
I'm very impressed by the difference the polarizer makes, first the reflections in the paint but also the see-through ness of the windows, very cool!



Yup, polarizers work like magic. Highly recommended for car photography.



it looks like you've got a very powerful flash as it almost completely eliminates the shadow from the dark area!


That would have been the Canon 580EX... you're right it's very powerful and I suspect I had the diffuser panel down to soften the output a little.



I didn't realise there would be as much difference between the 10D and 1D MkII in terms of focus speed! I guess you get what you pay for ;) I guess the focussing sensors are simply more sensitive and of a higher resolution.


The difference is huge. Part of it is the sensors, the other part according to Canon is :

"The EOS-1D Mark II is the first Canon camera to feature two dedicated CPUs for AF: one for detection and calculation, and another to control lens drive. EOS-1 class cameras prior to the 1D Mark II used a single dedicated
CPU for all AF operations."

mickegan
05-26-2005, 06:48 AM
What a great read Glenn and some excellent shots to go with it - well done.:)