I have I blieve bogen 3011 legs and a 3025 Head. the head is a pain in the neck to keep level. Anyone have suggestions as to a better head to keep my shots level?
I have I blieve bogen 3011 legs and a 3025 Head. the head is a pain in the neck to keep level. Anyone have suggestions as to a better head to keep my shots level?
I like my Bogen 3037 3-way pan head:
http://tinyurl.com/9efs3
Since I now have a lens with a tripod mount, I wanted a 2nd quick-release plate, and I notice they have one which prevents a camera (esp. with a long lens) from rotating on the plate!
http://tinyurl.com/dv8t6
I've ordered that one, and it'll go on my camera and the one I have now will go on the lens with the rotating mount.
Thanks for the advice. The 3047 looks like the right head for the tripod. Now if I can just find a good used deal on it... Does this tripod have leveling on both the vertical and hoirzontal axis' of the plane? I would like to use something that has both for shooting panoramas. Also, this may be asilly question but... you can turn the camera to portrait mode with this head right?
As it says in the B&H site's specs: Spirit Level: Yes (in both axes).
And yes, you can turn it to portait/vertical... that's why I've ordered the 90° plate. When I have my 70-200mm in portrait (with camera body on the tripod plate), the lens weight wants to twist the camera on the plate, pointing it downward. The 90° plate just keeps it wherever you point it. Of course with my lens that has a tripod mount that won't be needed, 'cause the lens bracket rotates.
In practice, though, I rarely use the spirit levels, except on initial tripod setup. To check for plumb, I quickly tilt the camera down to align the top of the frame with the horizon, lock that adjustment, and then compose from there. Lacking a horizon, I'll find a vertical element which will be near the center of my frame (maybe well in the background) and line the edge of my frame up with that, lock in and then compose. It becomes second nature.
I like the quick grip ball head. It gives me the ability to move the camera in an instant. You can adjust the ball pressure to compensate for heavy lenses.
Bruce, I have the 70-200 f2.8 and I know it's relativley heavy. Why would you mount the body to the tripod and not the lense itself? I use the mounting ring that came with the lense and have know problem with twisting in any position.
Rich
Canon EOS 20D
EF24-70mm f2.8L
EF 70-200mm f2.8L IS USM
EF 100-400mm f4.5 - 5.6L IS USM
EFS 10-22mm Ultra Wide Angle
Tamron 90mm Macro, 580EX Flash
My 70-200 is the lighter (cheaper!) f/4, and I didn't want to spend over $100 on the lens collar! My 100-400 came with one, and is a dream to use. When using a tri or monopod just to carry the 3-lb. weight of the larger lens (same weight as the 70-200 2.8 IS lens), I like to leave my ball or pan head loose and use Image Stabilization. For quick set-up, I agree, my ball head's faster, but my pan head is more stable for those times when I need to really lock the camera down for a long (non-IS) exposure, for instance.
Ahh, I made the ever so awkward assumption that you were talking about the 70-200 f/2.8. I have the 100-400 also, but (maybe I missed something in the manual) I thought the lens automatically turned off IS when mounted on a tripod.
Also, any recomendation on a monopod and head. I'm looking for one now. It will be used mainly for sports and nature photography. I like Manfrotto, but I'm not really sure what head to use. I don't want to use the quick grip ball it's just too big for a mono IMO.
Rich
Canon EOS 20D
EF24-70mm f2.8L
EF 70-200mm f2.8L IS USM
EF 100-400mm f4.5 - 5.6L IS USM
EFS 10-22mm Ultra Wide Angle
Tamron 90mm Macro, 580EX Flash
That's when it has beaten itself to death trying to stabilize a stable image.Originally Posted by RichLD1
I like my Manfrotto 486RC2 ball head. It's just the right size for me, and has a quick release. Although my two heads are Bogen/Manfrotto, the quick releases aren't the same... a nuissance, but I like each head.
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